Hazard Playbook

What To Do With Your Pet During an Earthquake While the Ground Is Shaking

By EmergencyPetPrep Editorial · Updated

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We compare published specifications and cite named authorities. We are not veterinarians and we do not test products by hand, so check the sources at the end of this page and talk to your own vet about your animal. Our methodology →

Read this first

Some pet emergencies outrun any checklist. If an animal is collapsing, struggling to breathe, or was exposed to something toxic, stop reading and call your veterinarian or the nearest emergency animal hospital now. When officials order an evacuation, go; nothing on this page is worth delaying your own exit. This article is spec-and-evidence analysis of published guidance, not veterinary care for your specific animal. Where your vet's instructions or an official order differ from anything here, they win.

Key takeaways

  • The authorities are blunt about the shaking itself: Drop, Cover, Hold On protects you first. The Great ShakeOut says do not run outside, because trying to move on ground that is moving is how people get hurt. You cannot protect a pet from the floor of a collapsing room.
  • Do not chase a bolting pet mid-shake. The Southern California Earthquake Center puts it plainly: leave them alone and focus on your own life safety. A frightened animal may bite or scratch to break free, so forcing it endangers you both.
  • Pets usually bolt, then hide. Michelson Found Animals notes animals are good at finding safety and hiding until danger passes, so you look for your pet once the shaking stops, not during it. Already holding the leash? Keep it, but drop it if your safety is at risk.
  • The immediate-after sequence has an order: check yourself for injuries first, then retrieve the hiding pet, then leash or crate it before aftershocks hit. Ready NC warns aftershocks can be as strong as the first quake.
  • Before you move through the house, watch for hazards. PG&E says if you smell gas, evacuate and do not touch anything electrical, and treat every downed power line as energized. A loose, panicked pet plus a live wire is a preventable tragedy.
  • Your pet is not a warning system. USGS says consistent and reliable animal behavior before a quake, and a mechanism for it, still elude science. What animals demonstrably detect is the P wave, seconds ahead of the shaking. Storms are the one case where the evidence is even arguable, and the single study behind it was formally contested in the same journal, so restlessness should change your calming plan, never your evacuation timing. Note also that every ShakeAlert delivery channel USGS lists is CA/OR/WA only; everywhere else, staged gear is the whole warning system.

The floor drops sideways. A picture comes off the wall. Your cat is already gone, a gray streak under the bed, and your dog is spinning by the couch, hackles up. Every instinct you have says the same thing: get to the animal. Grab it. Hold it. That instinct, in the ten seconds the ground is actually moving, is the one that gets people hurt.

This page answers the panicked in-the-moment question that most earthquake-prep guides skip. They cover the kit and the cleanup. Almost none say what to do with your pet during an earthquake while the ground is shaking: do you chase the pet, or protect yourself? The honest, authority-backed answer is not the comfortable one, and we are going to give it to you straight, then walk through the retrieval sequence for the moment the shaking stops, because that is when you actually get your pet back.

If you feel shaking right now, stop reading and Drop, Cover, and Hold On. Protect your own head and neck first. Your pet will almost certainly find cover on its own, and you will look for it once the shaking stops. The rest of this page is for before it happens, so the decision is already made when the floor moves.

The Rule That Feels Wrong But Is Right: Protect Yourself First

Here is the guidance every earthquake authority converges on, and it is about you, not your pet. The official Great ShakeOut protocol, from the Earthquake Country Alliance and the Southern California Earthquake Center, is three moves:

  • DROP “where you are, onto your hands and knees. This position protects you from being knocked down and reduces your chances of being hit by falling or flying objects.”
  • COVER “your head and neck with one arm and hand.” If a sturdy table or desk is nearby, crawl under it. If not, crawl next to an interior wall.
  • HOLD ON “until the shaking stops.” Under shelter, hold it and be ready to move with it if it shifts. No shelter, hold on to your head and neck with both arms and hands.

And the part that answers the grab-or-protect question directly: “DO NOT run outside! Trying to run in an earthquake is dangerous, as the ground is moving and you can easily fall or be injured by debris or glass.” The ShakeOut guidance is explicit that “The main point is to not try to move but to immediately protect yourself as best as possible where you are”, because “you are much more likely to be injured by falling or flying objects.”

Read that again with your pet in mind. If running across your own living room to a door is the dangerous move, running across it to chase a cat that just bolted is the same dangerous move with a worse ending, because now you are reaching into the gap under a bookshelf that is about to come down. Pet safety during an earthquake starts with a hard truth: you cannot protect an animal from the floor of a room that is falling on you. The drop, cover, hold on rule that protects you is also, indirectly, the rule that keeps you intact enough to go find your pet the second it is safe to move.

Should I Grab My Pet During an Earthquake?

This is the question people search for mid-panic, so here is the plain answer: no, not if grabbing means moving across a shaking room or reaching into a hiding spot. The people who study this for a living say so directly. Jason Ballmann of the Southern California Earthquake Center, quoted in Redbarn’s earthquake-preparedness guidance, frames it as simply as it gets: “We recommend people try to leave them alone and focus on their own life safety.”

There is one narrow exception, and it is worth stating precisely so you do not over-read the rule. If your pet is already right next to you when the shaking starts, small enough to hold, and calm enough not to fight, you can shelter together under your cover. If you are on a walk and already holding the leash, the pet-earthquake guidance from Michelson Found Animals and Redbarn is to hold on to the leash as best you can, but to drop it if your own safety is at risk so you can protect yourself. What none of that means is chasing. A pet that has already fled is a pet you retrieve afterward, not one you dive after now.

The reason this matters is not just your safety. It is that forcing the issue makes things worse for the animal too, which is the next thing to understand.

What Pets Actually Do: Bolt, Then Hide

An animal usually moves a beat before you do, and its response is old and reliable: run, then tuck into the smallest, lowest, most enclosed space it can reach. That head start is real, and it is measured in seconds. It is also the root of a myth that a lot of households quietly treat as a preparedness plan, which the next section takes apart. Michelson Found Animals describes the upside of the instinct plainly. Any frightened animal “may bite or scratch in order to flee to safety, so it is very important that you do not try to restrain your pet”, and “Animals are very good at finding safety and hiding until the danger has passed,” which is exactly why “you can look for your pet immediately after the shaking stops.”

Two things follow from that, and both argue against grabbing:

  • Restraint triggers a defensive bite or scratch. A cat wedged behind the water heater or a dog crammed under a desk is not being stubborn. It is doing the smartest thing available to it. Reach in and pull, and a scared animal that would never normally bite you will bite to get free. Now you have an injured hand in the middle of a disaster, which is the one thing that stops you from managing everything and everyone else.
  • Hiding is usually safer than wherever you would move it. Under a bed, low and enclosed, is often a better spot than out in the open being carried by a person who is themselves off balance on a moving floor. Trying to protect a dog or cat during an earthquake by relocating it mid-shake generally trades a decent hiding spot for a worse, more exposed one.

So the discipline is counterintuitive but consistent across every source: during the shaking, let the animal do its job while you do yours. The reunion happens the instant the floor goes still.

Your Pet Is Not an Earthquake Warning System

That beat your pet moves before you do is the seed of a belief that shows up in every earthquake thread afterward: the animal knew. The agency whose job it is to study this says it did not. The USGS Earthquake Hazards Program’s page on animals and earthquake prediction is blunt about the state of the evidence: “Anecdotal evidence abounds of animals, fish, birds, reptiles, and insects exhibiting strange behavior anywhere from weeks to seconds before an earthquake. However, consistent and reliable behavior prior to seismic events, and a mechanism explaining how it could work, still eludes us.”

What USGS does explain is the seconds. In its words: “We can easily explain the cause of unusual animal behavior seconds before humans feel an earthquake. Very few humans notice the smaller P wave that travels the fastest from the earthquake source and arrives before the larger S wave. But many animals with more keen senses are able to feel the P wave seconds before the S wave arrives.” That is the entire mechanism. Your cat is not forecasting an earthquake. It is reacting to one that has already happened, to a wave that left the fault moments earlier and got to the house first. USGS draws the line in the same breath: “As for sensing an impending earthquake days or weeks before it occurs, that’s a different story.”

The folk version of the claim has actually been tested rather than merely doubted. USGS describes a once-popular theory correlating Lost Pet ads in the San Jose Mercury News with the dates of Bay Area earthquakes, and reports that a statistical analysis published in California Geology in 1988 concluded there was no such correlation.

So the seconds-level warning that does exist is engineered, not biological, and it runs on the same wave your dog is reacting to. USGS is precise about what its system is and is not: “ShakeAlert® is not earthquake prediction. Rather, the USGS-operated ShakeAlert Earthquake Early Warning system detects an earthquake that has already started and estimates its location, magnitude and shaking intensity.” It buys time because P waves outrun the damaging S waves and surface waves, and data outruns both. USGS puts P waves at about 3.7 miles per second and says they “generally do not produce strong shaking”, against about 2.5 miles per second for the S waves and surface waves that do the damage. USGS describes a sensor network across the West Coast, with alerts delivered by partners through Wireless Emergency Alerts on FEMA’s IPAWS and through phone apps. The part a whining dog can never do is the part that matters: the alert names the action, Drop, Cover, and Hold On.

Read the coverage line before you build a plan on it. Three of the four delivery channels in the USGS sign-up table are listed for CA/OR/WA: the USGS/FEMA Wireless Emergency Alerts, the MyShake mobile app, and the Google Android operating system. The fourth, Alert San Diego, is narrower still at CA. No other state appears anywhere in that table. If you live over the New Madrid seismic zone, the Wasatch front, the Charleston fault, or in Alaska, there is no ShakeAlert message coming to your phone today, and the seconds this section describes are not seconds you have. Check the USGS earthquake early warning page for current coverage where you live and how to switch the alerts on, and until it lists your state, treat the staged gear and the practiced cover spot as the whole of your warning system.

Storms Are the Real Exception, and Still Not a Forecast You Can Use

The storm case is the one place the evidence is even arguable, and that deserves saying plainly instead of being lumped in with the earthquake myth. In Current Biology in 2015, Streby and colleagues reported five golden-winged warblers carrying light-level geolocators on breeding territories in Tennessee that abandoned those territories one to two days ahead of a supercell system, when it was still 400 to 900 kilometers west, then circled to the Gulf coast and back. That system, the authors report, produced 84 confirmed tornadoes and 35 confirmed human fatalities. Their proposed cue is infrasound, sound below the range of human hearing, which they say can travel thousands of kilometers from tornadic storms with little attenuation. They also hedge it themselves, in the paper: “Although we cannot rule out the possibility that warblers evacuated in response to some other cue, perhaps an undescribed olfactory or visual cue, infrasound is the parsimonious explanation from those available.”

That observation has not gone unchallenged, and the challenge is the part most retellings drop. In 2018 a group of twenty geolocation researchers, led by Simeon Lisovski, published a formal comment in the same journal arguing that the birds may not have moved at all. Their case is about the instrument: “we demonstrate that the hypothesized movements fell well within the geolocators’ inherent error range for this species and that such deviations in latitude occur frequently even if individuals remain stationary.” Their alternative reading is that the storm itself dimmed the light sensors the tags depend on, and they claim the same ground Streby’s team did: “the most parsimonious explanation for the location estimates during the severe weather event in 2014 is that geolocators were receiving reduced light intensities caused by the weather event.” Streby and colleagues answered in the same issue and did not concede. They hold that “the premise that environmental shading caused synchronous and parallel error among geolocators is false,” and that Lisovski’s group “have taken a position of incredulity toward all geolocator-based animal movement data published to date.”

We are not refereeing that. What matters for a preparedness page is that the single best piece of evidence anyone has that any animal anticipates a storm days out is formally disputed in its own journal, by twenty specialists in the exact method it used, and the dispute is unresolved. The section’s conclusion survives either way, because even the version the original authors defend gives you no timing you could act on.

Note the species. That infrasound argument rests on documented avian hearing, including a cochlear mechanism identified in birds. It is not a finding about dogs and cats, and it should not be read as one.

For dogs, the evidence is about association rather than anticipation. Writing in the peer-reviewed journal Today’s Veterinary Practice in 2025, veterinarians Melissa N. North and Sara L. Bennett, a board-certified veterinary behaviorist, list what actually sets a storm-phobic dog off: “darkening skies, gusts of wind, the scent of ozone, barometric pressure changes, and even rain alone can induce panic in dogs before the storm arrives.” A dog reacting to a pressure drop is reacting to weather that already exists nearby, and the same authors supply the reason that reaction carries no usable timing: “Dogs with storm phobia might continue to display fearful behavior for hours to days after the storm has passed.” Behavior that shows up on both sides of a storm cannot tell you which side you are standing on.

What the Restlessness Should Actually Change

Treating an animal as your alert is a preparedness failure, and it is the quiet kind. “The dog will let me know” substitutes for switching on Wireless Emergency Alerts, staging the carrier in the room the cat hides in, and knowing your cover spot, and it costs you nothing at all until the night the dog sleeps through it, or paces for a reason that has nothing to do with the weather. Restlessness gives you no direction, no severity, no lead time, and no way to separate a signal from an ordinary bad evening.

Evacuation timing comes from the alert system instead. The National Weather Service splits severe-storm messaging into two postures: of a Severe Thunderstorm Watch it says “Be Prepared!” and “Severe thunderstorms are possible in and near the watch area.” The watch area is “typically large, covering numerous counties or even states”. Of a Severe Thunderstorm Warning it says “Take Action!” and “Severe weather has been reported by spotters or indicated by radar.” For an earthquake there is no watch stage at all. There is nothing to act on until the ground moves, or until a ShakeAlert message reaches you seconds ahead of it.

What the restlessness legitimately changes is the calming plan, and starting that plan early is most of what makes it work. A dog that begins pacing when the sky darkens is telling you to run the routine now, while the animal can still be reached: get it to its safe spot, ask for the settle you practiced on ordinary days, and have the harness and carrier already in that room rather than in the garage. Our guide to calming gear for storm and evacuation stress covers what compression wraps and pheromone products can and cannot do, and the honest answer there is adjunct, not fix. If the pet will be home alone when the warning lands, leaving a dog home alone during a tornado warning is the pre-set version of the same plan.

The Moment the Shaking Stops: Your Retrieval Sequence

This is the part that actually gets your pet back, and it has an order. Do it in sequence, because skipping a step is how the good outcome slips away.

1. Check yourself and anyone with you for injuries first. Ready NC’s earthquake guidance puts human first aid at the top of the after-list: “Help hurt or trapped people. Give first aid when it is needed.” You are no use to a hiding cat if you cut your foot open standing up on broken glass. Take the two seconds to confirm you are functional and to get shoes on.

2. Find your pet where it went, not where you wish it were. Search low and enclosed: under beds, behind and under furniture, inside closets, behind appliances. Move slowly and talk low. Do not corner-and-grab a still-frightened animal; the same bite risk from mid-shake carries straight into the minutes after. For a cat that has dug in hard, or one that turns aggressive when you reach it, our full method for getting a hiding or scared cat into a carrier walks through the towel wrap and the top-load lower that get a resistant cat contained without a trip to urgent care.

3. Secure it before the aftershock, not after. This is the step people rush past, and it is the whole reason to move quickly. Ready NC warns that “aftershocks can be as strong as the earthquake” and “may occur for days or weeks.” A pet that is loose and rattled when the next jolt hits will bolt again, possibly out a door that got shaken open. So the moment you have the animal, get it into a harness and leash or into a carrier. This is the point where staged gear earns its place, because you do not have time to hunt for it.

Quick Picks

ProductPickPrice tierJump to review
Web Master Dog Harness with HandleBest grab-and-go harness to secure a panicked dog after the shakingmidRead review ↓
Petmate Two Door Top & Front Load Kennel (24-inch)Best pre-staged carrier for fast post-shake cratingbudgetRead review ↓

Price levels are our own editorial bands as of , not live Amazon prices. Check the product links for current pricing.

Web Master Dog Harness with Handle

Ruffwear · Mid-range

Best grab-and-go harness to secure a panicked dog after the shaking
SpecValueSource
Body geometryThree-strap, full-body design Ruffwear markets as good "for houdini dogs" that slip traditional harnesses; the third strap sits behind the ribcagespec sheet ↗ (opens in a new tab)
FasteningITW Nexus Airloc buckles, with a neck buckle Ruffwear says "eliminates the over-the-head on/off experience"spec sheet ↗ (opens in a new tab)
HandleOne reinforced padded back handle; Ruffwear's copy calls it "balanced lift and assist support for navigating technical terrain"spec sheet ↗ (opens in a new tab)
Low-light visibility"Reflective trim for visibility in low-light conditions" plus a light loop for attaching an accessory lightspec sheet ↗ (opens in a new tab)
Load or weight ratingRuffwear publishes no weight or load rating for the harness or for the handlespec sheet ↗ (opens in a new tab)

Pros

  • The reinforced back handle gives you an instant hard point to grab a dog that freezes or lunges at a threshold or stair when you move it after the shaking, faster than reeling in a leash
  • The rear third strap sits behind the ribcage, the exact spot a two-strap Y-harness leaves open, so a dog that panics and reverses in an aftershock meets webbing instead of an escape route
  • Kept clipped by the door, it is on the dog in seconds once shaking stops, before an aftershock, rather than something you dig out of a closet
  • Reflective trim and a light loop help a bolted dog get seen in dust, smoke, or a power-cut hallway before anyone is close enough to grab it

Cons

  • This is a dog harness; a cat needs the staged carrier below, not this, so a mixed household stages both
  • Ruffwear publishes no weight or load rating; "balanced lift and assist" is marketing language, not a tested capacity, so treat the handle as steadying support, not a rated lift over rubble
  • Escape resistance depends entirely on fit; a three-strap harness worn loose can be reversed out of like any other, so the two-finger fit check is doing the real work
  • It sells in five sizes and multiple colors, so this Amazon link opens one representative variant; select your dog's measured girth size and color on the live listing before buying

The point of this pick is timing, not heroics. You are not using it during the shaking; you are using it in the thirty seconds after, when a frightened dog is loose and an aftershock could hit. A harness staged by the door with a leash already clipped means you secure the dog before the next jolt instead of chasing it. Fit it to the two-finger rule and know the escape resistance is the fit, not the label.

Check price on Amazon → (opens in a new tab)

Prices/availability change: levels shown are editorial estimates, not live prices. Links may earn us a commission.

Petmate Two Door Top & Front Load Kennel (24-inch)

Petmate · Budget

Best pre-staged carrier for fast post-shake crating
SpecValueSource
Access pointsTwo doors: top-load and front-loadspec sheet ↗ (opens in a new tab)
Size24 inchspec sheet ↗ (opens in a new tab)
Manufacturing originMade in USAspec sheet ↗ (opens in a new tab)
ShellHard plastic shell that wipes and hoses cleanspec sheet ↗ (opens in a new tab)

Pros

  • The top door is the reason it earns a spot on this page: after a quake you retrieve a hiding, frightened cat, and lowering a towel-wrapped cat in from above beats forcing a braced cat through a front opening
  • Budget price relative to crash-tested carriers, so you can pre-stage one in each room a pet hides in instead of owning a single carrier that lives in the garage
  • Rigid shell survives months staged in a closet or car and cleans up after a stress-soiled cat, so it is ready whenever the ground moves
  • Front and top access together mean you can also coax a dog or reluctant cat through whichever opening it will tolerate in the moment

Cons

  • Larger and heavier than a soft carrier, so it takes permanent floor space wherever you stage it and does not fold flat
  • No published crash-test or dynamic-safety certification found for this line, so it is not the pick if a car-crash rating is your priority; our best cat evacuation carriers roundup compares certified options
  • The 24-inch size fits most cats and small dogs, but measure a large cat or a bigger dog against it before you count on it as their carrier

The right tool for the moment this page is about: the shaking has stopped, the cat is under the bed, and you need to contain it before an aftershock. A top-load carrier already staged in that room lets you lower a wrapped cat straight in from above. Keep one in every room a pet hides in, and if you need a car-crash rating for a long evacuation drive, see our best cat evacuation carriers roundup.

Check price on Amazon → (opens in a new tab)

Prices/availability change: levels shown are editorial estimates, not live prices. Links may earn us a commission.

Step 3, securing the animal, is where staged gear stops being optional. For a dog, a harness with a grab handle kept clipped by the door is the fastest way to get real control of a frightened animal before the next shake. The Ruffwear Web Master Dog Harness with Handle is built around a reinforced back handle and a three-strap, escape-resistant body Ruffwear markets for dogs that slip out of ordinary harnesses. Staged by the door with the leash already attached, it goes on in seconds, and a handle you can grab gives you control that a trailing leash does not. The card below covers the timing and the two-finger fit check that decide whether it holds.

For a cat, or a small dog that hides, a pre-staged carrier does the same job from the other direction. The Petmate Two Door Top & Front Load Kennel (24-inch) earns its spot here for one feature the moment demands: the top door, which changes how you contain a braced, hiding cat once you have found it. Stage one in each room a pet actually hides in, and the carrier is already there when the floor stops moving. The card below explains why that top opening beats a front door for the cat you just coaxed out from under the bed.

4. Now watch for the hazards as you move through the house. With the pet secured, checking for structural danger is safe to do. PG&E’s disaster guidance is specific: if you smell gas or suspect a leak, “Evacuate the building”, and “If you think that gas is leaking, don’t use anything electric”, because a spark can ignite it. Ready NC adds the same in plainer words: “If you smell gas or hear blowing or hissing noise, open a window and leave the building.” And treat every downed line as live: PG&E says to “Stay away from downed or damaged power lines and never touch them”, because “downed wires can still carry current.” A loose, panicked pet near a live wire is one of the preventable tragedies of the hour after a quake, which is exactly why securing the animal comes before you go poking around the house.

Stage It Now, Because There Is No Time Later

Everything above only works if the gear is already in place. An earthquake gives zero warning, so the harness by the door and the carrier in the bedroom are not things you assemble when the shaking starts. They are things that are already there, or they are not there at all. Pick the rooms your pets actually hide in and stage a carrier in each one. Keep a harness and leash clipped by the exit you would use. Then the retrieval sequence above is something you execute, not something you improvise.

This page is deliberately narrow: the shaking itself and the minutes right after. For the broader picture, the staged kit, the safe room, microchipping and the reunification numbers that matter if a pet does get out, and how tornadoes differ from quakes, see our full guide to earthquake and tornado pet prep, which is the no-warning-disaster companion to this page. If your household has more than one pet and you are ever forced to choose who you move first, our which pet to evacuate first framework walks through that triage before you are standing in it. And for the hardest single capture, the cat that hid and will not come out, getting a hiding or scared cat into a carrier is the detailed technique.

If you live on the coast, the retrieval sequence above is not necessarily the end of it. A strong or long earthquake is itself a natural tsunami warning, and our tsunami pet evacuation plan covers what changes once the shaking stops: an on-foot evacuation measured in minutes rather than the drive-away plan most pet kits assume.

Where to Go Next

The one move that changes your next earthquake is not a purchase. It is a decision made in advance: when the ground moves, you protect yourself and let your pet find cover, and you reunite the second the shaking stops. Say it out loud now so the instinct to lunge does not win later.

Then make the after-sequence physical. Stage a carrier in the room your cat hides in, clip a harness and leash by the door, and know your order: check yourself, find the pet, secure it before the aftershock, watch for gas and wires. This page is the shaking-moment spoke of our broader pet emergency playbooks hub. Walk your own home against these steps this week, on an ordinary afternoon, so the first time you run the sequence is not the day the floor is already moving.

Frequently asked questions

Should I grab my pet during an earthquake while the ground is shaking?

No, not if it means moving across a shaking room. The Great ShakeOut guidance is to Drop, Cover, and Hold On where you are and not run, because you are far more likely to be hurt by falling objects while trying to move. If your pet is right next to you, you can shelter together, but do not lunge after one that bolts. The Southern California Earthquake Center's advice is to leave pets alone and focus on your own life safety, because you retrieve them once the shaking stops.

Should I run outside with my dog when an earthquake starts?

No. The Great ShakeOut is explicit: do not run outside, because the ground is moving and you can easily fall or be injured by debris or glass. Doorways and the area right outside a building are where a lot of falling-object injuries happen. Stay put, protect your head and neck, and keep your dog with you only if it is already at your side. The moment to move your dog is after the shaking stops, not during it.

What do pets actually do during an earthquake?

Most bolt and then hide. Michelson Found Animals notes animals are very good at finding safety and hiding until the danger passes. That instinct is usually smarter than anything you could do mid-shake. Trying to drag a hidden, frightened cat out from under a bed while the room is still moving risks a defensive bite or scratch and pulls you out of your own cover, so it puts both of you in danger at once.

My cat hid during the quake. How do I get it out after the shaking stops?

Check yourself for injuries first, then search low and enclosed spots, under beds, behind appliances, inside closets, where a stressed cat retreats. Move slowly and do not corner-and-grab. A top-load carrier lets you lower a towel-wrapped cat in from above instead of dragging it through a front door. Our guide on getting a hiding or scared cat into a carrier covers the full technique, including the bite-risk handling for a cat that turns aggressive.

What is the right order of things right after the shaking stops?

Check yourself and anyone with you for injuries first, per Ready NC. Then retrieve your pet and get it leashed or crated before an aftershock hits, since Ready NC warns aftershocks can be as strong as the main quake. Then watch for hazards as you move: PG&E says if you smell gas, leave and do not use anything electrical, and stay away from downed power lines because they can still carry current.

Can my dog or cat sense an earthquake before it happens?

Not in any way you can plan around. The USGS Earthquake Hazards Program states that "consistent and reliable behavior prior to seismic events, and a mechanism explaining how it could work, still eludes us." What USGS does explain is the seconds. It writes that "many animals with more keen senses are able to feel the P wave seconds before the S wave arrives." The animal is therefore reacting to an earthquake that has already started, not forecasting one, and USGS applies that same distinction to its own technology: "ShakeAlert® is not earthquake prediction." Build your plan on staged gear and, if you live in California, Oregon, or Washington, on ShakeAlert-powered alerts, not on your pet's behavior. In the USGS sign-up table, the USGS/FEMA Wireless Emergency Alerts, the MyShake app and the Google Android operating system are each listed for CA/OR/WA, and Alert San Diego for CA alone. No channel in that table covers any other state, so if you are near New Madrid, the Wasatch front, Charleston, or in Alaska, the staged gear and a practiced Drop, Cover, Hold On are the entire plan.

My dog gets anxious before a storm. Can it predict the weather?

It is reacting to a storm that already exists nearby, which is a different thing. Writing in the peer-reviewed journal Today's Veterinary Practice in 2025, veterinarians Melissa N. North and Sara L. Bennett list the cues that set a storm-phobic dog off: "darkening skies, gusts of wind, the scent of ozone, barometric pressure changes, and even rain alone can induce panic in dogs before the storm arrives." The same authors note the reason that reaction carries no timing information: "Dogs with storm phobia might continue to display fearful behavior for hours to days after the storm has passed." Treat the restlessness as a cue to start your calming routine, and take evacuation timing from National Weather Service watches and warnings instead.

Is it better to keep my dog on a leash during an earthquake?

If you are already holding the leash when it hits, keep hold of it as best you can, but drop it if your own safety is at risk, per the pet-earthquake guidance from Michelson Found Animals and Redbarn. Do not go find a leash mid-shake. The real win is a harness and leash staged by the door, so the moment shaking stops you can secure a panicked dog before aftershocks instead of hunting for gear.

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Sources

We are not veterinarians, and we would rather you check these than take our word for anything. Every claim above traces to one of them. For your own animal, your vet is the expert, not this page.

  1. Great ShakeOut (Earthquake Country Alliance / Southern California Earthquake Center) — Drop, Cover, and Hold On (opens in a new tab)
  2. Michelson Found Animals — Earthquake Safety Tips for Pets (opens in a new tab)
  3. Redbarn — Pet Disaster Preparedness: Earthquakes (quoting Jason Ballmann, Southern California Earthquake Center) (opens in a new tab)
  4. Ready NC (NC Department of Public Safety) — Earthquake (opens in a new tab)
  5. PG&E — Natural Disaster Safety (gas leaks and downed power lines) (opens in a new tab)
  6. USGS Earthquake Hazards Program — Animals & Earthquake Prediction (opens in a new tab)
  7. USGS Earthquake Hazards Program — Earthquake Early Warning Overview (ShakeAlert), March 9, 2022 (opens in a new tab)
  8. Streby, Kramer, Peterson, Lehman, Buehler & Andersen — Tornadic Storm Avoidance Behavior in Breeding Songbirds, Current Biology 25(1):98-102, 2015 (opens in a new tab)
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