Evacuation Gear

What to Put on a Pet ID Tag for a Disaster: The Character Budget, Line by Line

By EmergencyPetPrep Editorial · Updated

Key takeaways

  • Three organizations publish three different field lists, and a fourth, the AVMA, declines to enumerate fields at all, so there is no single correct answer to copy. The ASPCA states "Your pet’s ID tag should contain his name, telephone number and any urgent medical needs." Humane World for Animals states "Make sure that cats and dogs are microchipped and wearing collars with up-to-date identification tags, including your cell phone number." American Humane states "The ID tag should include the owner's name, address, telephone numbers (day and evening) and the pet's name." Those are three different tags. Pick deliberately rather than assuming they agree.
  • The constraint is characters, and it is tighter than people expect. Made by Cleo's engraved ID tag page states it "Allows 14 characters per line max (count includes spaces)" across up to four lines per side, and recommends one to three; its hanging styles engrave both sides at no extra charge, while its slide styles are single-sided. On GoTags' stainless slide-on tag page, the order form itself caps the first line at 15 characters and the next three at 18 each. A phone number written as 555-555-5555 is twelve characters, so on most tags a single number eats most of a line.
  • A tag has no access control, and that is the whole point of it. The AVMA describes microchip registry data as protected, stating that "Reputable registries have safeguards in place to protect your personal information from unauthorized access." Nothing on an engraved tag is protected from anybody. Whoever catches the animal reads every line. This site therefore treats a tag as a publication, not a record, and that judgment is ours rather than a published standard.
  • We leave the home address off, and we are disagreeing with two named organizations when we do it. American Humane's disaster page states "Microchip pets or put a tag on their collar with your name, address and cell phone number so they may be returned quickly in case you are separated from your pets." Humane World for Animals' lost-dog and lost-cat pages separately recommend a collar and "an ID tag with your name, address and telephone number." Our reasoning is that during an evacuation an address on a tag tells a stranger which house is currently empty. No source we opened addresses that scenario either way, so treat this as our conclusion and decide for yourself.
  • The tag does a second job most owners never think about, and national rabies guidance names it. The 2016 NASPHV Compendium of Animal Rabies Prevention and Control states under adjunct procedures that "Dogs, cats, and ferrets should be identified (eg, metal or plastic tags or microchips) to allow for verification of rabies vaccination status." Its disaster-response section separately instructs responders to "Ensure that all animals have a unique identifier." The same document states that its recommendations "do not supersede state and local laws or requirements."

There is a version of this question that has an easy answer and a version that does not. The easy one is “what information helps a stranger return my pet,” and every animal-welfare organization in the country will answer it for you in a sentence. The hard one is the one you are actually facing, which is that you have somewhere between forty and eighty characters of metal, four organizations recommending four different sets of fields, three other tags already competing for space on the same collar, and no way to edit any of it once the laser has run.

So this page is not a list of nice things to know about your pet. It is a character budget. Every line you add costs a line you cannot have, and the tag that comes back from the engraver is a permanent object that a stranger will read out loud in a parking lot. We are going to spend the whole page on that trade-off: what each organization actually publishes, quoted individually and never merged, how much room the manufacturers actually give you, and which fields earn their characters when the reader is a person you have never met during the worst week of your year.

If what you want is the hardware decision rather than the wording, our QR code tag versus microchip comparison covers which technologies to layer and why neither replaces the other. This page assumes you have already decided to put an engraved tag on the collar and are staring at the empty text fields on the order form.

Four Organizations, Three Different Tags

The first thing to understand is that there is no consensus tag to copy. Four widely cited sources address the question. Three of them publish materially different answers, and the fourth declines to enumerate one at all, and a summary that blends the three into “experts recommend” would misstate all of them. Here is each one in its own words, read on August 13, 2026.

The ASPCA puts three things on the tag and does not name a fourth. Its disaster preparedness page states: “Make sure all pets wear collars and tags with up-to-date identification information. Your pet’s ID tag should contain his name, telephone number and any urgent medical needs.” The sentence directly after that one moves to a different object entirely: “Be sure to also write your pet’s name, your name and contact information on your pet’s carrier.” Notice what happened there. The ASPCA put the pet’s name, one telephone number and urgent medical needs on the tag, and moved your name onto the carrier. The word “address” does not appear anywhere in that page’s guidance.

Humane World for Animals, the organization formerly known as the Humane Society of the United States, names one field. Its pet emergency plan and disaster preparedness page states: “Make sure that cats and dogs are microchipped and wearing collars with up-to-date identification tags, including your cell phone number.” The sentences that follow are about the chip rather than the tag, and then it delivers the single most useful sentence on that page about why the tag matters at all: “But remember: The average person who finds your pet won’t be able to scan for a chip, but they will probably be able to read a basic tag!” Elsewhere on the same page it adds a visibility requirement: “Make sure that your cat or dog is wearing a collar and identification that is up to date and visible at all times.”

American Humane publishes the longest list, and it is the one that most directly contradicts what the rest of this page recommends. Its identification tags and microchips page states: “All cats and dogs need to wear collars with ID tags, rabies vaccination tags and city or county licenses (where applicable). The ID tag should include the owner’s name, address, telephone numbers (day and evening) and the pet’s name.” Its separate pet disaster preparedness page repeats the address in a disaster framing: “Microchip pets or put a tag on their collar with your name, address and cell phone number so they may be returned quickly in case you are separated from your pets.”

The AVMA does not enumerate tag fields anywhere in the answers we read, and instead answers the question owners actually get wrong. Its microchipping FAQ asks “Does a microchip replace identification tags and rabies tags?” and answers: “Absolutely not. Microchips are great for permanent, tamperproof identification, but nothing replaces a collar with up-to-date identification tags.” The sentences after that explain the mechanism: a person who finds an animal wearing a collar with tags can contact the owner directly, provided the tag information is accurate, whereas a microchip may be the only route left if the collar or tags are gone.

Set those side by side and the disagreement is not cosmetic.

Source (read August 13, 2026) Pet’s name Owner’s name Phone Address Medical Other tags named
ASPCA, Disaster Preparedness Yes, on the tag Not on the tag; on the carrier “telephone number”, singular Not named anywhere in its guidance “any urgent medical needs” Not named on this page
Humane World for Animals Not named Not named “your cell phone number” Not mentioned on the page Not named Not named
American Humane, Identification Tags & Microchips Yes Yes “telephone numbers (day and evening)” Yes, explicitly Not named Rabies vaccination tags and city or county licenses
AVMA, Microchipping FAQ Not enumerated Not enumerated Not enumerated Not enumerated Not enumerated Rabies tag, to be attached to the collar

Four rows, three tags. If you have been assuming there is a standard and you simply have not found it yet, stop looking. There is not one. What there is instead is a set of trade-offs somebody has to make, and since the tag is going on your animal, that somebody is you.

The Space You Are Actually Working With

Now the part almost nobody does before ordering: count the characters. The organizations above write as if space were free. It is not, and the manufacturers publish exactly how much of it you get.

Made by Cleo states its limits plainly on its engraved pet ID tag page: the tag “Fits up to 4 lines (for best results, use 1-3 lines)” and “Allows 14 characters per line max (count includes spaces).” Its feature list also opens with “Engrave on both sides (no extra charge)”, and on its hanging styles the order form exposes a front line 1-4 and a back line 1-4, each capped at 14 characters, so the stated four lines are really four lines per side: eight lines and 112 characters at the stated maximum, 84 at the three lines per side it recommends. Its slide styles are the single-sided exception, and that order form marks the back “Back side not engraved.” The same page explains why the recommendation is lower than the maximum: “The less text you use, the better the results. The auto-sizing of text is based on character density, # of lines used and total width of your text.”

GoTags publishes a line count in its product copy and enforces a character count in its order form, and the two are different pieces of information. Its stainless slide-on tag page describes a tag “custom engraved with up to 4 lines of personalized text” that fits “collars from 3/8 to 1 inch wide.” The order form on that same page is where the real budget lives: its four engraving fields cap the first line at 15 characters and each of the next three at 18. Its round stainless tag with a paw cutout is described as offering “personalized, double-sided engraving, with up to 6 lines of custom text” in two sizes, “our regular size (1.3 inches)” and “our small size (1 inch)”, and its form allows 12 characters on the first line of each side and 14 on each of the two lines below it.

Boomerang Tags, which sells its slide-on tags under the CollarTags name, publishes line counts rather than character counts. Its sizing page states that the miniature size “is limited to 4 lines of text” and that the size you need “is based on the width of the collar your pet wears,” and its engraving information page states: “We offer 5 lines of text on the 5/8, 3/4 and 1 inch wide CollarTag™ sizes.” That same page carries two formatting facts worth knowing before you write anything: “Tag text in engraved in UPPER CASE for easy readability” and “We do not engrave text on the backside of CollarTags™ because the back of them is against the pet’s collar.” For a slide-on tag, in other words, you have one side, not two.

Turn those published limits into totals and the problem becomes concrete. The arithmetic below is ours, done from the figures each manufacturer publishes.

Tag (specs read August 13, 2026) Lines Characters per line Total characters available
Made by Cleo hanging tag, both sides, at its stated maximum 8 across two sides 14 including spaces 112, split 56 per side
Made by Cleo hanging tag, both sides, at the 3 lines per side it recommends 6 across two sides 14 including spaces 84, split 42 per side
Made by Cleo slide tag, single-sided, at its stated maximum 4 14 including spaces 56, one side only
GoTags stainless slide-on, per its order form 4 15 on line 1, then 18 69, one side only
GoTags round with paw cutout, per its order form 6 across two sides 12 on the top line of each side, then 14 80, split 40 per side

Against those totals, here is what the fields cost, counted character by character. A US phone number written as 555-555-5555 is twelve. Written as (555) 555-5555 it is fourteen, and written bare as 5555555555 it is ten. MILO is four. MICROCHIPPED is twelve. NEEDS INSULIN is thirteen. A street address is the expensive one: 1428 MAPLE ST is thirteen on its own, and it is close to useless without a town, so 1428 MAPLE ST, ODESSA runs to twenty-one.

Read the two tables together and the shape of the decision appears. On a single side of a Made by Cleo tag, used the way its own page recommends, you have three lines of fourteen characters, and a phone number written with parentheses fills one of those lines exactly, with nothing left over. There is no version of Made by Cleo’s single-sided slide tag that holds a name, two phone numbers, a medical note and a street address. Its hanging styles engrave both sides at no extra charge, which doubles the room to eight lines and 112 characters, but a street address with a town still costs about a fifth of that total before a single phone number is written. On the roomiest option in this set, the double-sided round tag, you have eighty characters, and that twenty-one-character address line costs you more than a quarter of everything you own, before you have written a single phone number.

That is the real reason this page exists. The question is not what would be nice to have on the tag. It is which two or three things you are willing to spend the whole tag on.

The Collar Is Already Crowded

Before you allocate a single character, count the hardware. American Humane’s identification page names three separate items that belong on the collar: “All cats and dogs need to wear collars with ID tags, rabies vaccination tags and city or county licenses (where applicable).” The AVMA adds its own instruction for one of them: “Ensure that your pet’s rabies tag is attached to their collar, so others can quickly see that your pet has been vaccinated.”

So the engraved tag is not alone. It is sharing a D-ring with a rabies tag and, in many jurisdictions, a license tag, both of which are issued to you rather than designed by you. That has three consequences for the character budget.

The first is physical. Three hanging tags on a cat’s breakaway collar is a real weight and noise problem, which is part of why the slide-on category exists at all. Boomerang’s own answer to running out of room is to add hardware rather than shrink the text: its engraving page states that “to achieve more information you can install two or more CollarTags™ on the same collar.” That is a legitimate move and it is worth knowing about, but two slide-on tags is still two objects competing for the same strap.

The second is a scan-interference cost the manufacturers do not mention, and it is worth stating even though it is our own reasoning and not published guidance. Boomerang’s own suggestion above, installing two or more CollarTags on the same collar, solves the character budget by adding metal, and metal is exactly what the AVMA warns about. Its microchipping FAQ lists what interferes with a scan: “Situations that can interfere with scanning and microchip detection include animals that won’t stay still while being scanned; long, matted hair at or near the microchip site; excessive fat deposits in the area where the chip is implanted; and a metal collar or a collar with a lot of metal on it.” Every hanging tag, every rabies tag, every license tag and every extra slide-on tag stacked onto the collar to solve the character budget is also metal added to the collar, which is the last item on that list. Our own conclusion, not the AVMA’s: if your animal ends up at a shelter or a vet’s office, ask whoever is handling intake to remove the collar and run a complete-body scan with a universal scanner rather than scanning through a loaded collar, and say so out loud when you hand the animal over.

The third is informational, and it is the one owners miss. The rabies tag is already carrying a number that identifies your animal, and the AVMA is honest about the limits of that number: rabies tag numbers “also may help identify a lost pet and locate the owner, but obtaining that information can be difficult if veterinary clinics or local animal control or public health agencies are closed for the day.” Then it draws the comparison that matters at two in the morning during an evacuation: “Microchip registries generally can be accessed online or by telephone at any time.”

Read those two sentences the way an evacuating owner should. The rabies tag is a pointer to an office that may be closed for a week after a hurricane. The engraved tag is the only thing on the collar that a stranger can act on with no office open at all. That is what your forty to eighty characters are actually for.

The Tag Builder, Line by Line

Here is our own build, stated as defaults, with the reasoning for each line attached to the line itself rather than parked in a warning at the top of the page. That structure is deliberate. A tag gets read alone, an order form gets filled in alone, and a caveat three paragraphs above a field is a caveat that does not travel.

The rule this whole builder runs on is ours, so we will state it before the first line rather than after the last one: an engraved tag is a publication, and its audience is whoever is holding your animal. The AVMA describes the microchip registry as a record with access control, stating that “Reputable registries have safeguards in place to protect your personal information from unauthorized access”, and describing the AAHA lookup tool as a step that identifies which registry holds the record. A tag has none of that. There is no lookup, no login, no safeguard and no record of who read it. Everything you engrave, you have handed to every person who will ever pick up that animal, and to everyone standing next to them. That comparison between a protected registry field and an unprotected engraved field is our own reasoning. Neither the AVMA nor anyone else we read draws it.

Line 1: the pet’s name

Default: the pet’s call name, nothing else.

The ASPCA names it first in its tag sentence, quoted whole here because the rest of the sentence names two more fields this builder puts elsewhere: “Your pet’s ID tag should contain his name, telephone number and any urgent medical needs.” American Humane names it too. It is cheap in characters and it does real work, because a stranger who can say the name has a much better chance of getting a frightened dog to hold still than a stranger making noises at it.

Two things not to add here. Do not add your surname after the pet’s name. Boomerang’s own engraving page makes the formatting case against it, stating “We do recommend that you avoid listing your last name after your pet’s name, this is obvious and will only serve to require the text on the pet name line to be smaller and more crowded looking.” Our reason is different and additional: a first name plus a surname plus a phone number is enough to find a home address in about a minute, and none of the fields you chose individually looks like it discloses an address. That combination point is ours, not anyone’s published guidance.

Do not use the name line for a slogan. HAVE YOUR PEOPLE CALL MY PEOPLE is thirty-one characters, which is most of a whole tag on three of the four budgets above, and it is a joke a stranger has to decode before they find your number.

Line 2: the number you answer

Default: your mobile number, digits and hyphens only, no parentheses.

Humane World for Animals names this field specifically: “including your cell phone number.” The ASPCA names a singular “telephone number.” Write it as 555-555-5555 rather than (555) 555-5555 and you have bought back two characters at no cost to legibility, which on a fourteen-character line is most of a word.

Do not engrave a home landline. This one is not a network claim and needs no source: an evacuation is defined by the fact that you are not in the house, so a number that rings in the house is a number nobody will answer. If your household still uses a landline, its place is in the microchip registry record, not on the metal.

Line 3: the number somebody else answers

Default: a second number belonging to a person outside the affected area who has agreed, in advance, to be listed.

This is the line this page most wants you to add, and we are going to be careful about how we justify it, because it is not something the organizations above publish for a tag.

The nearest published thing we found is American Humane’s, and it is scoped to travel rather than disaster: “If you are traveling, put a temporary tag on your pet with the contact information of someone who knows how to reach you.” That sentence contains the whole idea. A person who knows how to reach you is a better answer than a number that is currently in your pocket, because in an evacuation your phone is the single most likely thing to fail. It is at four percent because you have been refreshing an evacuation map since dawn, or it is on silent in a motel two hundred miles away, or it is in the car.

What we are doing is extending a travel recommendation to an evacuation. That extension is ours. Our microchip registration audit page covers the registry side of the same idea in more depth and quotes the federal preparedness guidance that puts an out-of-area emergency contact into a chip registration; what nobody we read publishes is the same instruction for the engraved tag, which is why it appears here as our conclusion rather than as a standard.

Ask that person first, and tell them what they are agreeing to. Their phone number is their data, not yours, and once it is engraved it is published to every stranger who handles your animal for the life of the tag. They cannot see what is being distributed about them and they cannot recall it. So the conversation is not “can I list you,” it is “I am about to put your number on a metal tag on my dog’s collar, where anyone who finds him will read it, and I would like your permission.” Then give them what they need to be useful: the animal’s name and description, your vet’s name, and permission to say yes, that is their dog, and here is how to reach them.

Choose someone far enough away that the same event is not happening to them, and someone who answers calls from unknown numbers. An out-of-area contact who lets it ring is a decoration.

Line 4, if you have one: the disclosure line

Default: leave it blank, or use it for a medical word if and only if a missed day is dangerous.

The fourth line is where tags go wrong, because it is the line people fill because it is there. Two candidates are worth considering and both are covered in their own sections below: an urgent medical need, which the ASPCA does recommend, and the word MICROCHIPPED, which none of the pages quoted here recommends.

If you have nothing that meets the bar, leave it empty. Made by Cleo’s own page tells you why that is not a waste: fewer lines mean larger text, since its sizing “is based on character density, # of lines used and total width of your text.” An empty fourth line buys legibility on the three lines that matter, and legibility at arm’s length in bad light is the entire function of the object.

The Address: What the Sources Say, What They Do Not, and What We Conclude

This is the one field where we take a position against a named organization, so we are going to show all three parts of the reasoning rather than assert a rule.

What the sources recommend. American Humane recommends the address twice, in two different documents, and its disaster-framed version is the more direct of the two: “Microchip pets or put a tag on their collar with your name, address and cell phone number so they may be returned quickly in case you are separated from your pets.” Its identification page states the same field list in a general-preparedness framing. GoTags, whose product this would be engraved on, invites the same thing in its own marketing copy, telling buyers to “Customize with your pet’s name, medical details, contact numbers, and your address.” The ASPCA names only the pet’s name, a telephone number and urgent medical needs, and does not name an address in its tag guidance. Humane World for Animals names the cell phone number and never mentions an address on the page at all. That silence is specific to this one page, though: Humane World for Animals’ own lost-dog page states “A lost pet has a better chance of being returned to you if they always wear a collar and an ID tag with your name, address and telephone number,” and its lost-cat page publishes the same recommendation for cats, so the organization that is silent on its disaster page recommends the address explicitly elsewhere on its own site.

What none of them addresses. In the sources we opened for this page, which are the ASPCA’s disaster preparedness page, Humane World for Animals’ pet emergency plan and disaster preparedness page, Humane World for Animals’ lost-dog and lost-cat pages, both American Humane pages named above, the AVMA’s microchipping FAQ, the 2016 NASPHV Compendium and the manufacturer pages listed at the foot of this page, not one of them discusses the person holding the tag as anything other than a helpful finder. None of them weighs what an address on a tag discloses, none of them names a scenario in which the reader is not benign, and none of them says the address is safe either. One manufacturer page, CollarTags, states a bare preference for phone numbers over an address and gives no reason for it, quoted in full below. Beyond that, the question is not reasoned about anywhere we looked. We are telling you what we searched rather than what the literature contains, because we have not read the literature and neither has anyone who tells you no authority warns about this.

What this site concludes, and it is ours. Leave the home address off the tag.

The reasoning is specific to the event this page is about. In an ordinary week, an address on a tag is a mild convenience and a mild exposure: a neighbor can walk the dog back to the door. During an evacuation, those same twenty-odd engraved characters change meaning completely. They tell a stranger, at a moment when your entire neighborhood has emptied out and response times are measured in days, exactly which house is unoccupied. You are not choosing between a helpful finder and a hostile one. You are publishing to both, permanently, on an object designed to be read by anyone.

There is a real cost to our answer and we are not going to hide it. An address is the fastest route home for a loose dog found two streets away by someone who does not want to make a phone call, and that is a common, benign case. What we would say is that the second phone number on line 3 recovers most of that benefit, because it gives the finder a second human to reach rather than a second thing to do, and it does it without naming a building.

If you disagree, you are disagreeing with us and agreeing with American Humane, which is a defensible place to stand. Make the decision on purpose.

Medical Needs Are a Disclosure Decision, Not a Neutral Field

The ASPCA recommends this field: “Your pet’s ID tag should contain his name, telephone number and any urgent medical needs.” We think that is often right, and we are not going to quietly drop it. But it is not a free field, and the reason it is not free belongs in the same paragraph as the recommendation rather than in a footnote.

Whatever you engrave here is read by whoever catches the animal. That is the same non-private, non-recallable publication as every other line, and it is a line about your animal’s vulnerabilities. NEEDS INSULIN, BLIND, DEAF and SEIZURES are all statements that a person who intends well will act on and a person who does not can also act on. That is the trade-off. It is not a reason to leave the field blank; it is a reason to fill it deliberately.

Our own bar, which is ours and not the ASPCA’s: engrave a medical line when a missed day or two would put the animal in real danger, and skip it otherwise. A dog on a daily thyroid tablet can wait out a shelter stay. A diabetic cat cannot. An epileptic dog whose medication stops abruptly cannot. If your animal is in the second group, the field earns its characters.

Keep it to the shortest form that is actionable. NEEDS INSULIN is thirteen characters and tells a shelter worker what to escalate. DIABETIC is eight and does nearly the same job. A full sentence does not fit and would not be read anyway.

Then put the rest somewhere with more room. The condition, the drug names, the exact doses and the times of day belong on the card that travels with the crate, not on the collar, and our crate and kennel emergency ID card page builds that document. A laminated card zip-tied through the crate door holds a paragraph. The tag holds a word. Do not ask the tag to do the card’s job.

One more thing not to do, and it circulates widely enough to be worth naming. Engraving something like NEEDS MEDS or SPAYED as a deterrent against theft, on the theory that it makes the animal less appealing to keep, is advice we could not source to anyone credible. Every page recommending it that we found was a retailer or a pet-products marketing page selling tags. We are not telling you it does not work. We are telling you we found no evidence that it does, and that a false medical word on a tag is a lie you have engraved onto a permanent object that a veterinarian may one day read.

The Other Job the Tag Does: Rabies Vaccination Status

Here is the part that almost never appears in writing about pet tags, and it comes from the document that governs rabies control in the United States rather than from an animal-welfare organization.

The National Association of State Public Health Veterinarians publishes the Compendium of Animal Rabies Prevention and Control. The edition we read is the 2016 one, published in JAVMA Vol 248, No. 5, March 1, 2016, pages 505 to 517, endorsed by the AVMA, the American Public Health Association, the Association of Public Health Laboratories, the Council of State and Territorial Epidemiologists and the National Animal Care and Control Association. Its own masthead states: “This article has not undergone peer review.” We searched for a later edition on August 13, 2026 and did not surface one, which is a statement about our search rather than a finding that none exists.

Before anything else from that document, the sentence that scopes all of it, from page 505: “These recommendations do not supersede state and local laws or requirements.” National guidance here is a framework. The operative rules where you live are your state’s and your county’s, and nothing below changes that.

With that stated, the Compendium’s list of adjunct procedures opens with identification, and its framing of what a tag is for is not the framing owners use. Part I.B.4.a states: “Identification. Dogs, cats, and ferrets should be identified (eg, metal or plastic tags or microchips) to allow for verification of rabies vaccination status.”

Read that again. In this document the tag is not primarily a way to reach you. It is a way for someone else to establish what has been done to your animal.

The Compendium then has a disaster response section, Part I.B.8, and it is worth knowing that it exists, because it is easy to assume national rabies guidance has nothing to say about a hurricane. It opens: “Animals might be displaced during and after man-made or natural disasters and require emergency sheltering.” Among the measures it lists for that situation, two bear directly on the tag around your animal’s neck: “Ensure that all animals have a unique identifier.” and “Administer a rabies vaccine to all dogs, cats, and ferrets unless reliable proof of current vaccination exists.”

That second bullet is the one to sit with. In a disaster shelter, the default for an animal without reliable proof of current vaccination is vaccination. The bullet does not define “reliable proof” at the point of use, but the Compendium is not silent about the document: Part II.F, headed “Rabies certificates”, states that “All agencies and veterinarians should use Form 51, the rabies vaccination certificate recommended by the National Association of State Public Health Veterinarians, or should use an equivalent,” completed in full and signed by the administering or supervising veterinarian. That is the piece of paper to have in the go bag.

So here is the join, and the practical half of it is ours. Wearing a rabies tag is what the AVMA asks for so that “others can quickly see that your pet has been vaccinated”, and the AVMA also warns that looking up what a rabies tag number means can be difficult when the issuing office is closed. A number that cannot be looked up for a week is not proof of anything by itself. The Compendium names the document that can serve as proof, Form 51 or its equivalent, but it does not tell you how any particular shelter will judge it, because its own recommendations do not supersede state and local laws or requirements, and the people applying it are working from rules this page cannot read for you. What follows from that, in our judgment rather than on anyone’s authority, is that the tag and the paperwork are one item and not two: keep the rabies tag on the collar, and carry the vaccination certificate itself in the go bag where you can hand it to somebody. If you have to choose which to grab, the certificate is the document that answers the question the tag only points at.

There is one more thing in this document that changes how you should think about an unidentified animal, and we are going to state it carefully because it is easy to misread in both directions.

The Compendium sorts animals into different paths depending on their status. On strays, Part I.B.2 states: “Local health departments and animal control officials can enforce the removal of strays more effectively if owned animals are required to have identification and be confined or kept on leash.” The same passage adds: “Strays should be impounded for at least 3 business days to determine whether human exposure has occurred and to give owners sufficient time to reclaim animals.” The section on animals that bite people states the sentence that governs a healthy owned animal: “Regardless of rabies vaccination status, a healthy dog, cat, or ferret that exposes a person should be confined and observed daily for 10 days from the time of the exposure; administration of rabies vaccine to the animal is not recommended during the observation period to avoid confusing signs of rabies with rare adverse vaccine reactions.” That same passage continues: “Any illness in the animal should be reported immediately to the local health department.” The Compendium also instructs, in Part I.A.2, that “Questions regarding possible exposures should be directed promptly to state or local public health authorities,” and in its disaster-response section, to “Report human exposures to appropriate public health authorities.” If your animal has bitten someone, the bitten person washes the wound and speaks to a clinician, and you call your local health department before you settle anything else. Our page on a dog bite at an evacuation shelter covers that sequence in full.

Read what the confinement sentence alone does not say. It names no location, it does not use the word quarantine, and it covers dogs, cats and ferrets only. Further down the same passage, the document states separately: “Any stray or unwanted dog, cat, or ferret that exposes a person may be euthanized immediately, and the head or entire brain (including brainstem) should be submitted for testing.”

That last sentence is scoped to a stray or unwanted animal and it must stay scoped. It is not a statement about owned, identified animals, and this page is not telling you what any jurisdiction will do in any particular case, because the same document says its recommendations do not supersede state and local laws or requirements. What the passage does establish, in the document’s own structure, is that “stray” and “owned” are two different tracks with different consequences, and that identification is what the document names as the thing that makes the distinction enforceable.

The conclusion we draw from putting those pieces together is ours and we are labeling it as such: a legible tag is the fastest evidence an animal carries that it is somebody’s. Everything else that proves ownership lives in an office, a database or a filing cabinet, and after a disaster all three may be unreachable for days. That is a reason to keep the tag current that has nothing to do with whether your phone rings.

If your animal is the one already in someone else’s custody, that is a different problem with a different page: our guide on proving a pet is yours and getting it back collects what agencies and states publish about the evidence and the hold clock, and it does not publish our reading of any state’s rules.

If You Have a Safety Concern, Read This Before You Order

Everything on this page assumes the worst realistic reader of your tag is a stranger with no particular interest in you. For some households that assumption is wrong, and the whole calculation changes.

If you are dealing with domestic violence, stalking, a protective order, or any situation where a specific person must not be able to find you, understand plainly what these objects are. A tag, a crate card, a lost-pet flyer and a sticker on your front door are all publications. Every one of them is readable by whoever is holding the object, with no authentication, no log and no way to take it back. A phone number on a tag is a phone number handed to anyone who catches your animal, and animals are exactly the thing an abuser knows how to look for. The same is true of the veterinarian’s line this page suggests adding when there is room: a clinic has a public address, so naming it narrows where you live in the same way an address would, and it is a field that comes off with the rest if a specific person must not find you.

We are not going to improvise safety advice for that situation, because it is specialist work and getting it wrong has consequences we cannot see from here. The organization that does publish in this area is the Safety Net Project at the National Network to End Domestic Violence, at techsafety.org. Its resources page states: “The Safety Net Project develops resources and information on the use of technology for agencies and survivors of domestic violence, sexual assault, stalking, and trafficking”, and describes its survivor toolkit as containing “safety tips, information, and privacy strategies for survivors on the use of technology.” Its About page states that the Safety Net project focuses on “the intersection of technology and abuse.”

To be exact about what that means for this page: we did not find pet ID tag guidance in the Safety Net pages we read, and we are not implying there is any. We are routing you there because deciding what is safe to publish about yourself is the thing they work on, and a pet tag is a publication. Their site carries a quick-exit control and a Get Help section.

Four Worked Tags at Four Budgets

Theory is easy. Here is the same household’s information fitted to four real published limits, with the character counts done line by line so you can check the arithmetic.

Budget A: three lines of fourteen characters, which is Made by Cleo’s own recommendation. Total 42.

MILO
555-201-8834
555-618-2277

Four, twelve and twelve, against a fourteen-character ceiling on each line. Fourteen characters unused, which buys larger text on all three lines. No name of yours, no address, no medical note. This is the minimum viable disaster tag and for most households it is enough.

Budget B: four lines, 15 then 18, which is the GoTags stainless slide-on form. Total 69, one side only.

MILO
555-201-8834
555-618-2277 KIM
NEEDS INSULIN

Four, twelve, sixteen and thirteen. The third line names the out-of-area contact by first name only, which costs four characters and saves a stranger from wondering who they are calling. The fourth line is the medical disclosure, included here because insulin is the case where a missed day is dangerous. If your animal has no such condition, delete that line and take the legibility.

Budget C: six lines across two sides, which is the GoTags round tag with the paw cutout. Total 80, split 40 per side.

front:  MILO
        555-201-8834
        555-618-2277
back:   VET
        555-330-4416
        MICROCHIPPED

Four, twelve and twelve on the front against a 12/14/14 ceiling; three, twelve and twelve on the back against the same. Fifty-five of the eighty characters used.

Watch what the ceiling does to the back of this tag. A phone number written with hyphens is twelve characters, and a three-letter label plus a space in front of it makes sixteen, which is over the fourteen the form allows on those lines. So the label and the number cannot share a line, and VET has to sit on the twelve-character top line by itself. That is the whole lesson of this page in one tag: the limit does not just cut what you write, it dictates the shape.

Note also what we did not do with the extra space. We did not add an address, and we did not add a second medical line. We added a veterinarian’s number, which is an institution that can confirm the animal exists rather than a person whose personal number you are publishing without asking. That said, a vet line is not free either: a clinic has a public address, so naming it narrows where you live in the same way an address on the tag would. It is worth the route it opens for most readers, and it comes off with the rest if a specific person must not find you. We also added MICROCHIPPED, which is discussed below.

Budget D: a cat on a breakaway collar carrying a rabies tag and a license already. One slide-on tag, one side, three lines.

MILO
555-201-8834
INDOOR CAT

The third line is doing something specific. An indoor cat found outdoors is a cat that got out, not a cat that lives outside, and a finder who knows the difference is far less likely to assume it belongs to the neighborhood and leave it. American Humane makes the underlying point in its own words: “Tag your cat even if you never let him outside. He could slip through an open door and quickly become lost in the neighborhood.” The specific INDOOR CAT engraving is ours, not theirs.

There is a consequence of the breakaway collar itself that has to be said here rather than three sections away, because it is the sentence that decides how much weight this whole tag can carry. American Humane recommends that collar for a reason: “For cats, use a specially made safety collar that has a short piece of elastic sewn in it. These collars allow the cat to escape if it gets caught on window blinds, furniture, fencing or other objects.” A collar engineered to release is a collar that will sometimes release, and when it does, every character on this page leaves with it. So for a cat in particular, the engraved tag is the fast layer and not the durable one, and the microchip underneath it is doing more of the work than the collar is. The AVMA’s answer to whether a chip replaces a tag runs the other way too: “nothing replaces a collar with up-to-date identification tags”, and its own explanation of why is that a chip may be the only route left if the collar or tags are gone. Write the tag as if the collar will stay on, and register the chip as if it will not.

About that MICROCHIPPED line

It is a useful word and it is not a recommendation we can attribute to anyone. None of the organization or manufacturer pages quoted on this page lists it as a tag field. We include it as our own suggestion for one reason: Humane World for Animals states that the average finder “won’t be able to scan for a chip, but they will probably be able to read a basic tag”, and a finder who reads the word MICROCHIPPED knows that taking the animal to a vet or a shelter will produce an answer even if nobody answers the engraved numbers. That is a twelve-character nudge from “keep it and hope someone claims it” toward “get it scanned.”

It is worth its characters only if you have them spare, and it is worth nothing at all if the registration behind the chip is stale. Our microchip registration audit page walks the lookup and the fields, and it is genuinely the higher-value hour of the two.

What Not to Engrave

A short list, each with its reason attached.

Your home address. Covered above at length. This is our position and it disagrees with American Humane and with Humane World for Animals’ own lost-dog and lost-cat pages.

Your surname next to your first name and phone number. Any two of those three are enough to find a household. Boomerang’s own formatting guidance also advises against a surname on the name line for legibility reasons, which is a different argument reaching the same place.

A landline that rings inside the house you evacuated. By definition nobody is there.

“REWARD IF FOUND”. It costs fifteen characters, which is more than a whole line on two of the four tags above, it is not information a finder needs in order to call you, and it changes the incentive structure of the person holding your animal in a way you cannot control from a hundred miles away. None of the organization pages quoted on this page names it as a tag field.

A false medical or surgical claim as a theft deterrent. Discussed above. Unsourced outside retailer marketing, and it is a lie that a clinician may act on.

Anything you would not read out loud to a stranger. That is the whole test, and it is the one to apply to any field a form invites you to fill.

What We Could Not Source, and Why We Are Telling You

Four honest gaps, because this page makes recommendations that go past what its sources say and you should be able to see exactly where the line is.

One: the out-of-area number is our extension, not a published tag standard. The nearest published sentence we found is American Humane’s travel guidance about a temporary tag carrying “the contact information of someone who knows how to reach you.” Applying that to an evacuation is our judgment. In the sources we opened, listed in full at the foot of this page, no organization publishes an out-of-area contact as a field on the engraved tag.

Two: the only place we found the phone-instead-of-address preference in print was a tag manufacturer. Boomerang’s CollarTags engraving page states: “You may want to list several phone numbers instead of an address, you may want to have your vet’s name and phone number engraved on your pet’s tag.” We are naming that rather than hiding it, and we are also not leaning on it. That page is a manufacturer’s formatting guidance for its own product, not a safety authority, and it gives no reason for the preference. Our reason for leaving the address off is stated in our own voice above and stands or falls on its own.

Three: we did not verify a post-2016 edition of the rabies Compendium. We searched on August 13, 2026 and did not surface one. The association’s own document index did not resolve when we tried it. Treat the 2016 edition as the most recent one we could confirm, not as the most recent one that exists, and defer to your own state or local health department, which the Compendium itself does.

Four: we did not test any of these tags. Every physical figure on this page comes from the manufacturer’s own product page or its own order form, read on August 13, 2026 and cited at the foot of this page. We did not measure a tag, we did not count characters off a photograph, and we did not verify how any of these products wear. Character limits and line counts change without notice, and the number that governs you is the one the order form enforces on the day you place the order. Check it before you pay. Our review methodology explains how we handle a spec we cannot confirm.

Your Pet ID Tag Checklist

  • Read the order form’s own limits before you write anything. The published line count and the enforced character count are two different numbers, and only one of them stops you.
  • Count your collar hardware first. American Humane names ID tags, rabies vaccination tags and city or county licenses as three separate items that belong on a collar.
  • Line 1: the pet’s call name only. No surname, no slogan.
  • Line 2: the mobile number you actually answer, written with hyphens rather than parentheses to save two characters.
  • Line 3: a second number belonging to someone outside the affected area. Ask them first, tell them their number is going onto a metal tag that strangers will read, and brief them on the animal.
  • Decide the medical line on the missed-day test. Engrave it if a day or two without treatment is dangerous, and understand that whoever catches the animal reads it.
  • Leave the home address off, or put it on knowing that our reason for leaving it off is that during an evacuation it identifies an empty house, and knowing that American Humane recommends including it.
  • Leave a line blank rather than filling it. Fewer lines mean larger text on the lines that matter, which Made by Cleo’s own sizing note confirms.
  • Keep the rabies tag on the collar, and put the vaccination certificate in the go bag, because the tag points at an office that may be closed and the certificate is the document you can hand over.
  • Read the finished text out loud to a stranger in your head before you submit the order. Anything you would not say to them does not belong on the tag.
  • If a specific person must not be able to find you, do not improvise. Read the wording decision as the publication it is, and start at the NNEDV Safety Net Project at techsafety.org.
  • Re-engrave the day either number changes, including your out-of-area contact’s. Engraving is permanent, so a number they gave up two years ago is now a stranger’s phone. A tag with a disconnected number is the same failure as an unregistered microchip, and it is cheaper to fix.
  • Register the microchip as if the collar will come off, because on a cat wearing a breakaway collar it is designed to.

Where to Go Next

This page is the engraved-tag spoke of our pet evacuation kits hub, and it is deliberately narrow: it is about the words on the metal and the space you have for them. The rest of the identification problem splits four ways.

The hardware decision. Our QR code tag versus microchip comparison covers which technologies to layer and why a collar-mounted device and an implanted one fail in opposite situations, and our GPS tracker versus AirTag breakdown covers the live-location layer that neither a tag nor a chip provides.

The record behind the number. A tag reaches you; a registry reaches you when the tag is gone. Our microchip registration audit and contact chain page runs the lookup, audits the fields and builds the chain of people a shelter can call, including the case where the registry allows only one contact.

The documents that hold more than a tag can. The crate and kennel emergency ID card is a laminated page fixed to a crate for a shelter worker who already has your animal contained, with room for feeding, dosing and handling detail a tag cannot hold. The printable pet emergency wallet card builds the version you carry, and the printable pet rescue alert sticker builds the notice for your door, which our do firefighters know pets are inside page explains the real limits of.

If the animal is already gone. Start with how to find a lost pet after a disaster for the first-48-hours sequence, and filing a disaster lost-pet report for which agency actually holds the file.

Then do the one thing that takes ten minutes. Go and read the tag currently on your animal’s collar. Not from memory, physically, in good light. A surprising number of them carry a phone number from a carrier you left two years ago, and the tag that is wrong is the one that will be read.

Frequently asked questions

What should you put on a pet ID tag for a disaster?

Start from what the organizations actually publish, because they do not agree and each is quoted here on its own. The ASPCA's disaster preparedness page, read August 13, 2026, states "Your pet’s ID tag should contain his name, telephone number and any urgent medical needs." Humane World for Animals, on its pet emergency plan and disaster preparedness page read the same day, states "Make sure that cats and dogs are microchipped and wearing collars with up-to-date identification tags, including your cell phone number." American Humane's identification tags page, read the same day, states "The ID tag should include the owner's name, address, telephone numbers (day and evening) and the pet's name." Those are three different tags, and the space on a tag is small enough that you cannot have all three. This site's own default, which is our reasoning and not a published standard, is the pet's name, your mobile number, and a second number belonging to someone outside the affected area who has agreed in advance to be listed. We leave the home address off because an address on a tag is readable by anyone who catches the animal, including during an evacuation when it identifies a house nobody is home to defend. American Humane recommends including it, so this is a disagreement you should decide for yourself rather than take from us.

Should you put your address on a dog tag?

Named organizations disagree about this, so here is both sides before our answer. American Humane's identification tags page, read August 13, 2026, states "The ID tag should include the owner's name, address, telephone numbers (day and evening) and the pet's name", and its separate pet disaster preparedness page states "Microchip pets or put a tag on their collar with your name, address and cell phone number so they may be returned quickly in case you are separated from your pets." The ASPCA's disaster preparedness page names only the pet's name, a telephone number and any urgent medical needs for the tag, and the word address does not appear anywhere in that page's guidance. Humane World for Animals' pet emergency plan and disaster preparedness page names the cell phone number and does not mention an address on that page, but the same organization takes the opposite position elsewhere: its lost-dog page states "A lost pet has a better chance of being returned to you if they always wear a collar and an ID tag with your name, address and telephone number," and its lost-cat page publishes the same recommendation for cats. So the disagreement is not with one organization, it is with two, and with two documents from the second one. This site leaves the address off, for a reason none of those organizations addresses either way: a tag is readable by whoever is holding the animal, and during an evacuation an address printed on that tag tells a stranger which house is currently empty. That is our own reasoning rather than a published safety standard, and it is a trade-off, because an address can help a neighbor walk a dog home in an ordinary week. If you want a fallback that does not publish where you live, a second phone number belonging to someone outside the affected area does the same work without naming a building.

How many characters fit on a pet ID tag?

It depends on the tag, and the manufacturers publish enough to plan against. Made by Cleo's engraved pet ID tag page, read August 13, 2026, states the tag "Fits up to 4 lines (for best results, use 1-3 lines)" and "Allows 14 characters per line max (count includes spaces)." Its feature list also opens with "Engrave on both sides (no extra charge)" for its hanging styles, whose order form exposes a front line 1-4 and a back line 1-4, each capped at 14 characters, so those four lines are really four lines per side: up to eight lines and 112 characters in total, 84 at the three lines per side the page recommends. Its slide styles are the single-sided exception, and the order form marks the back "Back side not engraved." GoTags' stainless slide-on tag page, read the same day, describes the tag as engraved with "up to 4 lines of personalized text," and its own order form limits the first line to 15 characters and each of the next three to 18. GoTags' round stainless tag with a paw cutout is described on its page as "personalized, double-sided engraving, with up to 6 lines of custom text", and that form limits the first line on each side to 12 characters and the two below it to 14 each. Boomerang Tags states on its CollarTags pages that it offers five lines of text on its 5/8, 3/4 and 1 inch wide sizes and that its miniature size is limited to four lines. Do the arithmetic before you order: a phone number written as 555-555-5555 is twelve characters, so on a fourteen-character line one number is almost the whole line.

Should you put your pet's medical condition on the ID tag?

The ASPCA says yes, and you should know what that costs before you follow it. The ASPCA's disaster preparedness page, read August 13, 2026, states "Your pet’s ID tag should contain his name, telephone number and any urgent medical needs." GoTags' stainless slide-on tag page, read the same day, similarly invites buyers to customize the tag with "your pet's name, medical details, contact numbers, and your address." The practical case for it is real: a diabetic cat or a dog on seizure medication that spends three days in a shelter without anyone knowing is in genuine danger. The trade-off is that an engraved line is not private in any sense. Whoever catches the animal reads it, and so does everyone standing next to them. It also costs characters you may need for a second phone number. This site's suggestion, which is ours rather than a published standard, is to engrave a medical line only when a missed dose is dangerous within days, keep it to one short word or two, and put the full condition, drug names and doses on the card that travels with the crate rather than on the collar.

If my pet has a microchip, does it still need an ID tag?

Yes, and the veterinary answer to this is unusually blunt. The AVMA's microchipping FAQ for pet owners, read August 13, 2026, asks "Does a microchip replace identification tags and rabies tags?" and answers "Absolutely not. Microchips are great for permanent, tamperproof identification, but nothing replaces a collar with up-to-date identification tags." The AVMA goes on to explain that any person who finds an animal wearing a collar with tags can contact the owner directly if the tag information is accurate, while a chip may be the only route if the collar or tags are gone. Humane World for Animals puts the same point from the finder's side, stating "The average person who finds your pet won't be able to scan for a chip, but they will probably be able to read a basic tag!" The two layers fail in opposite situations, so keep both current rather than choosing between them.

Should the rabies tag stay on the collar during an evacuation?

Keep it on, and know what it is doing there. The AVMA's microchipping FAQ, read August 13, 2026, states "Ensure that your pet's rabies tag is attached to their collar, so others can quickly see that your pet has been vaccinated", and adds that rabies tag numbers may also help identify a lost pet, though looking that number up can be difficult when clinics or animal control offices are closed. The 2016 NASPHV Compendium of Animal Rabies Prevention and Control lists identification among its adjunct procedures, stating that "Dogs, cats, and ferrets should be identified (eg, metal or plastic tags or microchips) to allow for verification of rabies vaccination status", and its disaster response section instructs responders to "Ensure that all animals have a unique identifier" and to "Administer a rabies vaccine to all dogs, cats, and ferrets unless reliable proof of current vaccination exists." The Compendium is not silent about what counts as reliable proof: Part II.F, headed "Rabies certificates", states that "All agencies and veterinarians should use Form 51, the rabies vaccination certificate recommended by the National Association of State Public Health Veterinarians, or should use an equivalent," completed in full and signed by the administering or supervising veterinarian. What it does not tell you is how any particular shelter will judge that certificate, because its recommendations "do not supersede state and local laws or requirements." So carry the vaccination certificate as well as wearing the tag, and let your own state or local health authority answer anything the tag alone cannot settle.

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Sources

We are not veterinarians, and we would rather you check these than take our word for anything. Every claim above traces to one of them. For your own animal, your vet is the expert, not this page.

  1. ASPCA — Disaster Preparedness (Step 1 rescue alert sticker; Step 4 collars, tags and carrier labeling; read August 13, 2026) (opens in a new tab)
  2. Humane World for Animals (formerly the Humane Society of the United States) — Pet Emergency Plan and Disaster Preparedness (read August 13, 2026) (opens in a new tab)
  3. AVMA — Microchipping: FAQs for pet owners (read from rendered page text August 13, 2026) (opens in a new tab)
  4. American Humane — Identification Tags & Microchips (page dated July 8, 2022; read August 13, 2026) (opens in a new tab)
  5. American Humane — Pet Disaster Preparedness (read August 13, 2026) (opens in a new tab)
  6. NASPHV — Compendium of Animal Rabies Prevention and Control, 2016 (JAVMA Vol 248, No. 5, March 1, 2016, pp. 505-517; read from the page images of this county-hosted PDF mirror on August 13, 2026) (opens in a new tab)
  7. Made by Cleo — Engraved ID Tags for Cats + Small Dogs, Key Features & Guidelines (character and line limits; read August 13, 2026) (opens in a new tab)
  8. GoTags — Slide-On Dog Tags, Stainless Steel (line count, collar width range, and the engraving form's own per-line character limits; read August 13, 2026) (opens in a new tab)
  9. GoTags — Round Dog Tag, Stainless Steel with Paw Cutout (double-sided line count, tag diameters, and the form's per-line limits; read August 13, 2026) (opens in a new tab)
  10. Boomerang Tags — CollarTags sizing and fitment page (line counts by collar width; read August 13, 2026) (opens in a new tab)
  11. CollarTags (Boomerang Tags) — Pet ID Text Engraving Information (formatting rules, upper case, no reverse engraving; read August 13, 2026) (opens in a new tab)
  12. NNEDV Safety Net Project — Resources (published scope of the project's toolkits; read August 13, 2026) (opens in a new tab)
  13. NNEDV Safety Net Project — About (self-description of program focus; read August 13, 2026) (opens in a new tab)